In fact, Lange’s gray disc watches are quite a lot. However, compared with the overwhelming black and white elements of various brands, the gray discs are different, conveying Lange’s unique aesthetic concept.
If you only play the concept of color, everyone knows. What Lange did was to combine the most complex mechanical structures to express esoteric watchmaking skills, such as the Datograph Perpetual, which combines the perpetual calendar and the flyback timing.
Datograph Perpetual real shot
It may be difficult to imagine the profound knowledge behind it, but it is also the success of Lange – with the simplest picture dedicated to the people who read the time.
Therefore, whether it is a small second hand at 8 o’clock, a week and day and night display, or a month at 4 o’clock, a 30-minute counter and a leap year indication, it is easy to see without taking up extra space.
Not to mention the moon phase at 6 o’clock and the large calendar window at the 12 o’clock position, it is easy to read. The date, week, month and other time information can be synchronized forward through the button in the upper left corner.
If you flip to the back of the Datograph Perpetual, I am afraid that not many people can resist its toxicity, and the mechanical structure is more complex and full of beauty. Whether it is the lever that controls the timing mechanism, the column wheel or the bridge of the fixed gear, they are arranged in a row.
The gooseneck type fine-tuning device often used in high-end watches, the balance wheel plate is decorated with delicate patterns, hand-carved by the engraver of the Lange watch factory, and the eccentric weight on the balance wheel is convenient for maintenance personnel to adjust. The chamfering and polishing of the various parts exudes a dazzling luster, which shows the best quality of Lange in the details.
L952.1 manual winding movement, diameter 32mm, thickness 8mm, 556 parts, 45 rubies, 18,000 vibration times per hour, power storage 36 hours
Since the balance of the L952.1 movement is rotating at a frequency of 18,000 times per hour, it means to cut 5 equal parts per second. When the timing button is pressed, the central chronograph second hand is every 1/5 seconds. The speed of sliding one grid advances; therefore, the scale between the stereo time scales can be 1/5 second, and the speedometer of the outer ring can also calculate the speed of the object running.
It is worth mentioning that the Datograph Perpetual is equipped with a precise jumping mechanism. When the chronograph second-hand gear is operated, the snail cam on the scoring lever will drive the plucking chronograph minute hand gear on the scoring lever; the chronograph second-hand gear rotates one time. In the circle, the pawl will hook the chronograph minute hand gear backward, so that the chronograph minute hand jumps forward and instantly forms a visual effect when the faceplate jumps.
Let’s talk about another gray disc. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, although there is no flyback timing device that can be paused, reset, and restarted with one button, it is equipped with a tourbillon with a stop-second mechanism to become the leading technology in the field.
There are a lot of watches that can stop in the market, but there are very few tourbillons that can stop seconds, and Lange lets the watch pull the crown while the balance wheel in the tourbillon frame stops, safe and reliable, and secure the wrist. The watch setting is accurate to the second. The top of the tourbillon frame is finished with a black finish, which is the most cumbersome and time-consuming of many manual surface treatments.
However, even with this very powerful mechanism, Lange chose to make the disk surface in the lowest tone: no open window showing the tourbillon, only the most classic eccentric hour, big calendar, small seconds, etc. of Lange 1 Symmetrical design.
If the name does not contain the word “Perpetual Calendar”, you might think that it is a watch with only time, day, night and moon phases, rather than a very complicated perpetual calendar.
All this is due to the design of the disk, including the day and night display below the time dial, the small seconds and the moon phase coexistence, the 6 o’clock position arrow indicating the month (the outer ring shows the ring can be rotated) and the leap year window above the arrow, 9 o’clock The retrograde week of the clock position indicates that each party, without interference and mutual integration, creates a clean and clear reading environment.
L082.1 self-winding movement, hand-crafted and assembled; five-way precision adjustment; splint and bridge are made of untreated German silver; 624 parts, 76 stones (5 of which are set in screws) Inside the gold sleeve, another diamond end stone)
The L082.1 self-winding movement inside the watch is equipped with a 21K gold center part with a shock absorber and a platinum 950 centrifugal wheel.
This masterpiece, like all Lange’s timepieces, has amazing craftsmanship, but does not show off on an exaggerated surface; it has a complex structure but insists on a simple, practical design.
As the gray representing Lange, it contains the possibility of all extremes; also like the golden mean, making a difference, and just right. This connotation of Lange is the quality of top watchmaking.
Finally, talk about two issues that everyone cares about: size and price. Datograph Perpetual has a size of 41mm × 13.5mm and a reference price of 900,000 yuan. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar has a size of 41.9mm × 12.2mm and a reference price of 2.5 million yuan.